Interview de Dolce & Gabbana sur Madonna et la collection MDG.
Madonna: Dolce & Gabbana's shady lady
Madonna has designed a new range of sunglasses for Dolce & Gabbana. ES sneaks backstage on Steven Klein's campaign shoot to see a diva in action
Why did you start working with Madonna?
Stefano Gabbana: For the premiere of In Bed with Madonna in 1991 she wore a Dolce & Gabbana guêpière [bustier].
Domenico Dolce: We didn't know she'd be wearing it, but after seeing the photographs in magazines, we went to New York to meet her.
SG: At our meeting she was wearing a pinstripe man's suit and a Sicilian cap; she had come straight from the Dick Tracy set. She likes to talk about everything. She is a very curious woman.
DD: We talked about music, obviously, fashion, movies... At the time she was in love with Neorealist Italian cinema, which has always been a very important inspiration for us. Right after that, we started working together. We designed the costumes for her Girlie Show tour in 1993 – more than 1,500 costumes for her and her dancers.
How does Madonna embody Dolce & Gabbana?
DD: We've always been fascinated by her personality. She knows exactly what the public likes and how to captivate them; we admire her ability to transform herself into the right thing at the right moment.
SG: She has the 'attitude'. You can't define it using words; it's a mixture of charisma, fascination, sensuality, seduction and self-consciousness. These are the characteristics of the Dolce & Gabbana woman and she conveys them through her life and her choices.
Which is your favourite Madonna song and film?
SG: Evita is my favourite film. My favourite song changes according to the moment.
DD: I loved Evita, too. 'Like a Prayer' is my favourite song.
What is Madonna like to work with?
SG: Challenging and very exciting. She is always involved and is never afraid to say what she thinks. I wouldn't say we had creative clashes but being three different people, each of us developed different points of view. We took something from each of our ideas and put everything together to achieve the final result. This campaign was shot as if it were a movie – it was filmed with a movie camera so the pictures will look like film stills. The idea was an indiscreet eye, almost voyeuristic, that would evoke the essence of a star like Madonna: admired, chased, spied, adored, but never completely revealed.
DD: Like us, she is a control freak, keen on every detail and satisfied only when she has scored the final goal.
SG: In our recent 'Madonna At Home' campaign we wanted to play on the contrast of being a diva and the domestic atmosphere of the set. We wanted to show the human side of the woman and the sensuality of everyday things.
DD: We were inspired by Italian cinema, such as the Luchino Visconti comedy-drama Bellissima, starring Anna Magnani.
SG: Which Madonna watched before the shoot.
What sort of woman are these sunglasses designed for?
SG: It's a very feminine and sensual collection.
DD: We didn't have a particular woman in mind, but as it is a collaboration with Madonna, we thought of a woman who wants to feel like a diva.
Who are the ultimate Dolce & Gabbana women?
DD: Madonna, Monica Bellucci and Isabella Rossellini.
SG: And the divas of Italian cinema, such as Anna Magnani, Monica Vitti and Sophia Loren. Being Italian is our main trait within the fashion world and our references have basically always been the same.
What are you inspired by?
DD: The starting points have been since the beginning Neorealist cinema [Visconti and Fellini], Sicily and the Sicilian tradition. We've always loved Italian cinema divas for their natural elegance and charisma. Madonna, too, has made her Italian heritage one of her traits; she has never hidden her pride in her background.
Which women influenced you growing up?
SG: Our mothers through the memories that they bring back to us. When we were creating the lipsticks for our make-up range, we wanted them to have the same scent we remembered when opening our mothers' handbags as children.
Why do you think you have so many celebrity fans?
SG: We want women to feel beautiful wearing a Dolce & Gabbana dress. We love beautiful things and we always try to create clothing to enhance the body; women are aware of this.
The MDG collection will be in Dolce & Gabbana stores and online at dolcegabbana.com from late May.
Source: ES magazine.
Madonna and Tyson Ballou shooting the MDG advertising campaign.
Madonna shooting the MDG advertising campaign.
Stefano Gabbana, Madonna and Domenico Dolce in 2007.